Nicolas Ghesquière
Artistic Director of Women's Collections, Louis Vuitton
The designer who brought Balenciaga to the cutting edge is now breathing new life into heritage brand Louis Vuitton.
One of the most forward-thinking fashion designers in the world, Nicolas Ghesquière took the reins as the new artistic director of women’s collections at Louis Vuitton in 2013. Ghesquière's was believed to have been appointed to re-energise and re-elevate Louis Vuitton’s fashion offering, restoring the brand's high luxury cachet, which had suffered in recent seasons — a task he has largely succeeded in. Ghesquière's sharp aesthetic and innovative craftsmanship at Vuitton has placed the label squarely at the forefront of the industry.
Prior to joining Vuitton, Ghesquière spent a total of 15 years at Balenciaga, a once ailing womenswear house which he transformed into one of the most forward-thinking luxury brands in the world (and the most exclusive and sought-after ticket at Paris Fashion Week) with his complex vision, sculptural tailoring and use of ultra-modern fabrics.
Raised in the small town of Loudun in western France, Ghesquière announced at the age of 12 that he wanted to be a designer, though he admits this was partly from an adolescent desire to do something different from his parents and to alleviate boredom. At 14, he got an internship with French designer Agnès B for which he was paid in clothes.
He worked from 1990 to 1992 as an assistant to designer Jean-Paul Gaultier . He then worked at Pôles, designing their knitwear line followed by a series of assignments with different companies including the Italian house of Callaghan. Prior to his appointment as Balenciaga’s creative director (a position left vacant following the dismissal of Belgian Josephus Thimister) Ghesquière designed funeral clothes for the brand under a license for the Japan market.
In 2001, the same year that Ghesquière was named Womenswear Designer of the Year by the CFDA, the Gucci Group bought Balenciaga, a move that Ghesquière welcomed. “It is a happy relationship,” he said at the time. “It has worked because they wanted me to explain what I wanted to do with Balenciaga, not the other way around.”
Things later soured with Gucci Group’s owners PPR (now Kering) and, in November 2012, Ghesquière and PPR parted ways in what was an acrimonious separation.
On November 4, 2013, Ghesquiére was announced as Louis Vuitton's new artistic director — just weeks after Marc Jacobs had announced his retirement from the house. "Louis Vuitton has always incarnated for me the symbol of ultimate luxury, innovation and exploration," Ghesquiére said. "I am very honoured of the mission that I am entrusted with, and proud to join the history of this great maison. We share common values and a vision."
VITAL STATISTICS
What is The BoF 500?
The people shaping the global fashion industry, curated by the editors of The Business of Fashion, based on nominations and on-the-ground intelligence from around the world.
ExploreFind out more
What is The BoF 500?
The people shaping the global fashion industry, curated by the editors of The Business of Fashion, based on nominations and on-the-ground intelligence from around the world.
ExploreTop 10 Shows of the Season
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.
The BoF Podcast | Tim Blanks and Imran Amed Recap The Season That Was
BoF’s editor-in-chief and editor-at-large walk through the highlights and unforgettable moments of fashion weeks in Milan and Paris.
In Dark Times, Choose Optimism!
Chanel, Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton offered “useful beauty” for Spring 2023, writes Tim Blanks.
Louis Vuitton Lands in California
The stunning Salk Institute in La Jolla, California could have upstaged Nicolas Ghesquière’s latest collection. Instead, it brought it to life.
The Kids Are Alright
Teen volatility at Vuitton, bare midriffs at Miu Miu, tweedy Chelsea Girls at Chanel… what a time to be young and in fashion!
What’s Legacy Got to Do With It?
Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Valentino fuse past and present in their quest for an uncertain future.
Tim Blanks’ Top Fashion Shows of All-Time: Balenciaga Autumn/Winter 2006, 28 February, 2006
BoF’s editor at large looks back at one of Nicolas Ghesquière's most memorable collections for the house — one that would influence fashion for years to come.
At Louis Vuitton, Between Masculine and Feminine
While not particularly convincing in conceptual terms, the collection was well suited to real life, making for one of Nicolas Ghesquière’s strongest outings for the French megabrand.
At Paris Fashion Week, Real Life and Liberation
Reality was front and centre at Paris Fashion Week, but this season’s winners both addressed and transcended our current state of affairs, reports Angelo Flaccavento, who beamed into Paris from his base in Italy.
Can Emerging Designers and Technology Reimagine Fashion’s Creative Processes?
BoF speaks to four emerging designers who are experimenting with Microsoft technologies to innovate their creative process with regards to waste, aesthetics and product.